Hardrace Camber Kit Install – Brandon’s Integra

One of the main things that I will be focusing on this year is actually my own 1997 Acura Integra RS SE. You might’ve seen a little bit about it in my 2012 recap, but incase you missed it, it’s been an ongoing project of mine for the past couple years.

I won’t go into too much detail about what’s already done with the car, but rather I’m going to be showing everything that’s being done to the car this year as I have quite a lot planned for it (not to mention a basement full of car parts). Since I’ve owned the car, it has been my daily driving serving double duty on both the street and the track, as well as summer and our harsh Canadian winters.

The car actually came equipped with DropZone N1 coilovers ,which to be honest were not my first choice, but they’ve done rather well so far for my purpose and were already set at the ride height I wanted. Of course a lowered ride height (in this case, slammed) means an increase (or is it decrease?) in negative camber. A lot of it infact. To help cure as well as control the camber, a set of camber kits were in order. Hardrace was the brand of choice, with the front camber kits being shown here…

…and the pair of rears here. I must say that I’m very impressed with the quality of these products and can confidently recommend them to anyone.

Before we begin, I would like to give out a huge thanks to my good friend Ray who helped me with the install (Thanks bro!). Moving on with the actual install, we first had to get your car up in the air, which for most cars, no problem. Cars with about four inches of ground clearance however, problem. I’ve gotten used to this by now, so driving onto a few planks of wood to help give the car some extra ground clearance always does the trick. After that, raise the car even more by using a floor jack, then put the lift arms under the car and we’re in business.

We started off with the rears as that would be much easier than the fronts (supposed to be anyways).

To our surprize, none of the bolts on the factory control arm were seized!

Here we can see the Hardrace rear camber kit next to the OEM control arm. In this photo the Hardrace component is about the same length as its OEM counterpart with lots of room for adjustment available.

Before installing the new camber kits, we went ahead and took the precaution of coating them in anti-seizing grease to help prevent them from getting stuck in the future. Simply take the rear camber kits apart…

…apply the anti-seize grease…

…and simply put them back together.

Putting the camber kits back in weren’t too much trouble as the fit on these were perfect. The tricky part was getting the trailing arm to line up with the camber kit so you can bolt the two back together.

Nothing a little elbow grease can’t solve however.

While we were at it, I went ahead and had my rear drivers side coilover assembly taken out to get the height adjusted (it always sat a little lower than the passenger side – 15mm’s as it turned out). If you have coilovers and winter drive your car, there’s a good chance that the collars on the coilovers are seized. Make sure to spray them with penetrating oil and let it soak in for a while to help get them loose again.

The coilover got the anti-seizing treatment as well!

With the rear install complete, time to move onto the front. We begin by cutting the cotter pin on the ball joint (make sure you have new ones).

Next unbolt the OEM upper control arms and coilover from the top of the strut tower (here you can see my ghetto intake support).

Back in the wheel well, take off the castle nut holding the upper control arm to the front knuckle.

Now we want to lower the front suspension to give us a bit of wiggle room to get the factory control arm out, however we do not want it to drop completely and have the CV joints pop out of place. To help prevent that from happening, a jack stand is put in place to help support the suspension.

Once that is taken care of, we can begin by carefully lowering the front suspension to give us just enough room to get the upper control arm out and over the coilover.

Tah-dah! Here we can see the factory upper control arm next to the Hardrace camber kit. As you can see, the Hardrace unit (or any other aftermarket camber kit for that matter) allows you to move the position of the ball joint, thus allowing you to adjust the camber.

Although the kits come with everything you need for the install, there is some hardware that you need to attach to the camber kit itself before installing them.

Once that is done (which it’s not yet in this picture) then it’s time to put these into the car!

The process is the same as taking the original control arms out, just reversed of course.

Once again, fitment was perfect.

Don’t forget to tighten everything back up on top!

We also went ahead and threw on some newer nuts and bolts for my strut bar.

Throw on the new castle nut and cotter pins and it’s off to the alignment rack, which would prove to be a challenge.

Before we got there however, I couldn’t help but notice how cambered out the wheels were before we actually got to aligning them. Not exactly Hellaflush but damn! This is exactly what I’m trying to fix.

Now some alignment racks are sunken into the ground so that cars can drive straight onto them no matter how low the vehicle is. The one we were using however was not, which then called…

…for a little bit of improvising. “Sketch” is the word I believed we used to describe this.

Oh wells, it would work. Hopefully.

Slow the car crept up…

…while I watched in fear.

Quickly realigning the wood planks to make sure that they were lined up properly with the car…

…while I was waiting for them to snap. As it turns out, they didn’t!

What did happen however was that the planks flew backwards as the wheels spun forwards. Goodbye extra ground clearance! The problem however was that the car was not fully on the alignment rack yet.

I was expecting my bumper to get crushed at this point, but amazingly there was just enough ground clearance (literally millimeters) to be able to safely drive the car onto the alignment rack. Phew.

This was the initial reading we got from the computer. As you can see, everything is completely out of whack.

We were actually expecting the adjustment of the front kits to be a complete pain given the ball joint’s location, however Ray was able to squeeze his arms into the wheel wells with just enough room to get to the adjustment bolts.

Unfortunately we actually ran out of time to properly align everything to the specs I wanted, so after a “lightning alignment”, I made another appointment with Ray to see him in the near future to get everything to the right specs as well as install some Energy Suspension steering rack bushings. So far however I’ve been very happy with how the car’s been driving as the steering response and feel has been significantly improved. Stay tuned for more!


Click HERE to view the full photo set on Flickr.


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